Relay information page

Hookup info for my Single Relay and Relay Power supply boards

The parts shown on this page can be found here in my catalog pages
Channel switching page
Screws Nuts and Washers page
Short Turret lugs are on this page
Capacitors page

Kits-Parts list page is here - Everything in a kit

Click on the images to see larger images

Left: Relay Power supply board - Right: Single relay board
Note that the power supply board can use a Radial or Axial 4700uf cap

Left: The single relay board with the relay socket and 1n4001 diode mounted
Right: The relay power supply board with the parts mounted
See the link at the top of this page for a link to all these parts in my web store

The 4700uf axial cap shown in this photo is no longer available.
I now stock a 4700uf Radial cap for the power supply board
See the image below

This is the 4700uf Radial cap used on the power supply boards

Relay Board Assembly Tips:
The single relay board only has the 8 holes that match the 8 relay pins
The relay only uses 8 of the 16 pins on the 16 pin socket
When using the 16 pin relay socket I sell, clip off the pins that are not used
On some sockets you can just push out the pins you want to remove

You can solder the relay directly to the board without a socket.
This makes it harder to change the relay if there is ever a failure
The socket makes it easier to remove the relay from the board

The large holes with the silver rings are the wire hookup holes
You can solder wires directly to those holes or, you can mount a short turret lug in the holes
If you use the short turret lugs I sell, you do not have to swage them onto the board.
You can actually solder them to the board
This makes it easier if you do not have a turret lug swaging tool

I added and soldered these four lugs to the power supply board.
You don't have to use turret lugs, you can solder wires directly to the holes on the board

Here's a shot of the soldered on lugs I added to the power supply board.
It's way easier to solder them than to swage them
Tip: Add these lugs first before the other parts.
You can tip the board upside down on the bench and it will hold the lugs in place while you solder them
See the customer tip below

Here's a tip from one of my customers.
He noted that the soldered lugs will move around when trying to solder wires to them
He crimped the lugs first and then soldered them
See the two images above

Relay Power supply assembly Tips:
The image above shows the relay power supply board populated with parts.

You can use a 50 volt bridge rectifier or 4 individual 1n4001 diodes.
The board has holes for both methods

There is a 7805 5 volt voltage regulator.
Note that the regulator can supply up to 1.5 amps of DC current
The relays I sell only use 40 milliamps of coil current
In Theory, you could supply 37.5 relays with this power supply board
1500 milliamps / 0.04 milliamps = 37.5

The filter cap is a 4700uf/16 volt capacitor
The axial cap shown in the image is no longer available
I now stock a 4700uf Radial cap for the power supply board
See the image on this page of that cap

There is an extra spot on the board for a small radial filter cap, but it is not needed

Hookup Diagram

Power supply board
The two 6.3 vac hookup points go to your amps 6.3 vac heater wires

The +5 and GND connections go to the relay board coil + and - connections
These are the Red and Black lines on the diagram above

You can have a simple SPST switch interrupt the Black DC minus wire to turn the relay coil on or off
You could also use an external foot switch to do this

Relay board
There is a 1n4001 diode across the relay coil to prevent kickback into the circuit when the coil disengages

The relay has two separate switching halves. Side A and Side B in my diagram above
You could switch two separate signals at the same time,
or you could do something like switch an extra gain stage in and out like I do on this page
Hotswitch mod page info

In my diagram above, when the relay coil is engaged or disengaged,
Signal In A goes to either Signal Out 1 or Signal Out 2
Signal Out 1 is the normally closed contact for Side A

Signal In B goes to either Signal Out 3 or Signal Out 4
Signal Out 3 is the normally closed contact for Side B

Important note: Do not use the metal amp chassis as the DC minus wire
Run two separate wires from the relay power supply board to the relay board.
If using an external foot switch, make sure the chassis jack where you plug in the foot switch is isolated from the chassis.
If you use a plastic jack, like a Marshal style jack, you will be good to go
If you use a Switchcraft metal jack, you must use isolation washers so that the jack is not in contact with the metal chassis
I stock Shoulder washers for Switchcraft jacks on this page
Misc. Hardware Page

If you wanted to control the relay with a foot switch, just replace the SPST toggle switch with this configuration
I stock foot switches on this page
I stock Jacks on this page

You use #6 mounting hardware to mount the boards inside the amp
This mounting hardware is included on the Parts List-Kits page

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