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2800ma Multi Mode driver board

I use this driver board to assemble the Marwi XML LED bike lights
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This page shows all the parts I use to assemble the XML lights

This page has the assembly instructions for the Marwi XML lights

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This driver board has 8 AMC7135 current limiter chips
There are 4 x 7135 chips on Side 1 and 4 x 7135 chips on Side 2

Each chip can limit 350ma of current
8 x 350ma = 2800ma total current limit capability

There is also a micro controller chip that pulses a control leg on the 7135 chips
This is how the board can deliver different current limiter modes
The micro controller pulses the control leg at different rates to increase or decrease the current

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Click for a larger image
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See the diagram above right that explains the different modes
The stock board is already set to Mode 1, no stars are grounded
You do not have to select a different mode if you want a strobe and SOS mode
What appears to be Star #1 is just a Star that is connected to the outer ground ring

If you want to select another mode, you have to ground one of the stars
Stars #2, #3 and #4 are the mode selecting stars
Solder a small wire from one of the stars to the outer gold ground ring to select which mode you want to use
I like Star#3 mode because it gives you 3 different light levels without the annoying strobe and SOS modes

You use a regular SPST On-Off switch to control this board
This switch interrupts the Battery - on it's way to the board

To turn on the LED, you click the switch so that the Battery - is now connected to the board.

To change modes, you push the switch lightly until the switch contacts are no longer connected.
Then you release the switch to reconnect the contacts
The board switches to the next mode
You do not have to click the switch, just tap it lightly

To turn off the LED, you click the switch so that the Battery - is disconnected from the board

The board remembers the last mode when you shut it off and turn it back on

Use the diagram above left to follow the color codes described below.
The gold ring that surrounds the outer part of the board is Battery minus or ground.
If you solder a small wire from Star #3 to the outer gold ring, you are selecting mode 3
The green colored squares on the diagram above are Battery - or ground
Star 1 is just a star that is connected to ground

The Red dots are Battery Plus and LED plus (same thing)

The yellow squares show how the Stars are connected to the controller chip
The yellow stars are where you solder your jumper wire to select the mode you want

The Orange squares show how the micro controller chip is connected to the 8 x 7135 chips
The Orange legs on the 7135 chips are pulsed on and off to regulate the current at different levels.

Assembly tip if you are using mode 3
I use mode #3 on the Marwi XML light I build
You can take a quick time saving short cut and solder a small blob of solder across the TINY13A chip legs to select mode 3
The two legs you use are the yellow #3 leg and the green leg to the right of yellow #3
See the picture above left that shows these two legs
The assembly page link at the top of this page has pictures of how I do this
 
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This is how you hook this board up to a Battery and a LED

Note that Battery + and LED + are the same thing
I like to connect Battery + and LED+ to the gold spring because it's easier to solder to this large area 
There is a small solder pad with a + sign. You can use that pad for LED+ if you want to

Battery - can be soldered to the outer gold ring on any side of the board that you want.
Normally Battery - goes to a SPST On-Off switch first and then from the switch it goes to the board
This is how you turn the LED Off and on and change modes

The LED- solder pad is very tiny and can be tricky to get a wire soldered to it.
It takes a very fine tipped solder iron tip to do this
Do not blob solder everywhere and short out across other solder traces.
You are very close to the outer Battery - ring on the boards so be careful.

Never solder a wire to a trace and then try and bend the wire a different direction
You will rip the copper solder trace right off the board, or worse yet, rip a chip off the board
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