Dual 1400ma current limiter boards with clicky switch - Last Version |
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The diagrams below describe how the switching scheme works with a P7 LED and two 1400ma current regulating boards. Note that the clicky switch shown below has been modified. One extra terminal has been added. That clicky switch mod can be found on the main bike lights page |
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This shows what happens when the switch is off. The battery negative is cut off from both boards, and so neither board is on. |
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The switch is clicked once and Terminal Out2 is now able to connect the battery negative to the top board. The LED comes on but with 1.4 amps of current regulation. This gives you a low setting on the SSC P7 LED The bottom board is not on because the negative of the battery is cut off from reaching the bottom board. |
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The switch is clicked once more and now Out1, Out2 and Out3 terminals are on at the same time. Notice the blue jumper wire that connects Out3 to the Out2 terminal. Now the battery negative is able to reach both boards and so both board boards are now on. This regulates the current at 2.8 amps and gives you a high setting on the SSC P7 LED |
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Note that some types of clicky switches actually has 6 click positions. The center terminal repeats itself twice for every 360 degree revolution, like this Off - On2 - On 1 and On 3 repeat again Off - On2 - On 1 and On 3 |
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| These are all the items inside one of my Hi-Lo SSC P7 electronics stack. | |
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The cap spacer board is where the battery+ and - attach, and it helps keeps the whole stack centered in the housing Notice the small notch at the top of the cap spacer board. The switch is modified for Off - On2 - On1 and On3 The switch board is where the switch gets soldered and several wires leave this board. Notice the small notch at the top of the switch board. The spacer keeps the switch board from touching the first current limiter board Next, there are two modified 1400ma current limiter boards in the stack. The LED board is on top of the stack. This is where the SSC P7 gets it's power. Assembly Tip: Enlarge the hole in the battery connect board if needed. This keeps the switch plunger from sticking. |
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The current limiter boards above have been milled on my CNC machine. The CNC machine drills a couple holes and mills an oblong hole The milling removes material that may short out the LED- wire and one of the ground wires. One hole is drilled for the LED- wire The material around the LED- wire hole is removed One hole is just enlarged for the board1 ground The oblong holes are milled so that a ground wire can pass through one board without shorting out. All four diodes must be removed from both boards. Later on, we will add a small jumper wire that will replace the diodes. This jumper wire connects the Battery+ to the center of the board and to the chips on the board. Note that I am just using stripped 20ga solid core wire for my buss wires and jumpers. The big Battery+ and - leads between the cap spacer board and the switch board are 18ga solid core wire.  |
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A modified switch with one terminal added. I also soldered the spring to the Battery- in terminal for a better connection |
Here's the modified switch put back together. I put a tiny dab of Super Glue on each of the four corner post for security |
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The Switch is soldered to the switch board. The cap spacer board is glued to the switch to hold it in place, using a very tiny amount of super glue. The notches in both boards must line up for proper Battery wire alignment. Add the Battery+ and Battery- wires between the two boards Snip off the excess switch leads and battery wires so they do not stick out beyond the small spacer board. Add the Battery+ wire to the center of the switch board Add both current limit ground wires to the switch board. Glue on the small spacer using a tiny amount of super glue. |
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Installing current limit board #1 Note that the notch on the switch board is at about 10:00 in the photo on the left. |
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Slide the current limit board down onto the stack. The board should sit flat on top of the small spacer that is under this board The Battery+ wire passes through the center of the board. The two ground wires pass through the board. Ground1 is bent over and soldered to the board edge. Ground2 continues up to board #2 without touching anything on board #1 Add the Battery+ Jumper wire to both areas where the outside contacts of the diodes used to be. The Battery+ jumper gets soldered at both ends and to the Battery+ wire in the center. Add the LED- wire to the hole in Board #1 |
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Installing current limit board #2 Note that the notch on the switch board is at about 10:00 in the photo on the left. |
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Slide the current limit board down onto the stack. The board should sit flat on top of Board#1 The Battery+ wire passes through the center of the board. Ground2 wires pass through the board. Ground2 is bent over and soldered to the board edge. Add the Battery+ Jumper wire to both areas where the outside contacts of the diodes used to be. The Battery+ jumper gets soldered at both ends and to the Battery+ wire in the center. The LED- wire passes through the board and continues up to the LED board Solder the LED- wire |
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Add the LED board to the stack. It should sit flat on board #2. Solder the Battery+/LED+ wire. Solder the LED- wire. Later on we will add wires to this board that go to the SSC P7 LED - |
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| Side views of the finished stack. | |
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The stack fits inside a custom aluminum housing. The LED is screwed to the aluminum housing. The LED + and - wires come from the LED board, go through the aluminum housing and get soldered to the LED. |
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LED+ and LED- wires from the board below come up through the + and - holes in the LED heat sink I use Teflon jacket wire for the LED+ and - wires. |
This is what the completed driver and LED capsule look like from the side. |
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