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We were relieved to see our dear friend Linda waiting for us
at the airport exit, and she quickly rescued us from the over-eager
airport porters insistent on carrying our luggage and finding us
transport into town. Linda had arrived in Bali weeks earlier, and
had been working on research for a series of films that would
document Balinese life rituals. She had already organized
two minivans to take us and our luggage from Denpasar airport
to Ubud, where we were to be staying.
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It was on this journey - perhaps about 50 minutes - that we got our
first taste of the incredible place Bali is. Everywhere we looked
was beauty. There was the natural beauty of the countryside - although
little of this was truely natural - the Balinese had shaped every
hillside into terraces, utilizing every square inch for growing rice, but still it
was somehow breathtakingly beautiful, with an organic grace to the
curves and terraces that covered the landscape. Then there was the
art - everywhere art. Wood carvings, stone carvings, paintings,
batiks, woven fabrics - and later we would find music, dance,
shadow-puppets...
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On
the way we passed by a house where brightly
colored flags were flying atop tall poles. Clearly some kind of
ceremony was going on. We asked the drivers to stop and jumped
out to take a look. We could hardly believe that we were barely
off the plane and stumbling across a real Balinese ritual going
on.
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Inside
the walled courtyard, a feast was being prepared. Gnarly looking
chunks of meat were being chopped up - obviously they were planning
on feeding quite a crowd. But to the left we saw what we had come
all this way for. A gamelan orchestra was set up - gongs and metallophones
waiting to be played for whatever ceremony was being prepared. A
real Balinese gamelan....
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Nobody
seemed to mind us having a discrete peek - they seemed to be
making preparations for an Odalan - a purification
ceremony for the family temple that stands within the walls
of their compound. These ceremonies must be held about once
a year to purify the temple and the family compound, and
keep it free from evil forces. The families spend huge sums
on these ceremonies - the priest, gamelan, and the feast to
feed all the guests.
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We finally
arrived in Ubud and were taken to the place that would be our home
for the next three weeks - Oka Wati's. Despite being
located in the heart of Ubud, Oka Wati's is set back from the main
street, the busy Monkey Forest Road, and looks out over a set of
rice fields. Our room was upstairs, so we were able to watch the
rice farmer each day.
Apparently it had been raining quite a lot just before we arrived,
and the place smelled lush and fertile. This picture shows (left
to right) Linda, Astrid, and Justine, on our balcony, feeling
very lucky to be all together in Bali.
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This
is another view looking out from our balcony over the rice field.
From left to right, Steve, Dan, Astrid, and Linda. On the far
side of the rice field is the little office for the hotel, and
other buildings belonging to the village of Ubud.
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Photos: Astrid, Martin and Julia Randall
All content copyright (c) 2001, Astrid, Martin and Julia Randall
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